HRIPL’s do-or-dye marketing approach to mask India’s greying concerns

For the premiere of Annette at the 2021 Cannes Film Festival, Andie MacDowell walked the red carpet with a cascade of greying curls. Dame Helen Mirren followed suit with an elegant chignon, and Jodie Foster sported a sleek bob, silver streaks proudly framing her face.

Grey hair may be enjoying a renaissance among the older generation, but for millennials and Gen Z, a single silver strand can still induce a minor identity crisis. In an era where youthfulness is currency—thanks in part to entrepreneurs like Bryan Johnson making anti-aging a full-fledged movement—many still associate grey hair with declining desirability and professional disadvantage.

This partially explains why India's hair care market is valued at Rs 50,000 crore, with hair colour cornering a large part of this segment. Global brands like Lakmé, Garnier, and L’Oréal have long dominated this category. But homegrown Hygienic Research Institute Pvt Ltd (HRIPL), the company behind Vasmol, Streax, and Streax Professional, is betting on personalisation and heritage to make a splash in the country’s increasingly fragmented and value-driven beauty landscape.

The skinification of hair

According to Dheeraj Arora, HRIPL’s managing director and CEO, the hair care category is experiencing a seismic shift—what he calls the “skinification” of hair routines. “Consumers today seek high-performance, personalised solutions rather than one-size-fits-all products,” he tells Campaign.

Blondes, brunettes, and bold hues—young Indians are embracing hair colour like never before. Shades like deep wine, caramel brown, burgundy, and beige are outpacing classic blacks and browns, fuelled by the influence of celebrities and social media. And if reports are to be believed, actor Katrina Kaif once shelled out a cool INR 55 lakh to have London-based stylist Daniel Galvin transform her tresses for Fitoor. Talk about commitment to colour!

Chetan Joshi, a Vidal Sassoon-trained stylist from a leading Mumbai salon chain, has noticed this clear shift. “It’s not just Gen Z experimenting anymore—millennials are also stepping up, keen to make a statement with their hair,” he observed.

But while urban India flirts with fiery reds and honey blondes, rural regions remain largely untouched by this trend. Limited awareness, traditional beauty norms, and accessibility issues keep penetration below 10%.

With plenty of headroom for growth, brands like HRIPL are betting big on changing perceptions and making hair colouring a routine rather than a rare indulgence. The company’s strategy hinges on a dual approach: on one end, it offers mass-market affordability through Vasmol, a trusted brand known for its natural ingredients. On the other, Streax and Streax Professional cater to the aspirational consumer seeking high-fashion shades and premium formulations.

“India is still catching up to global colour penetration levels, but interest in fashion shades is rising. We are uniquely positioned to meet this demand with the widest palette of colours in the market,” said Arora.

The 'Bharat' versus 'India' strategy

India’s consumers are walking a tightrope between bargain hunting and value-seeking. According to a 2023 Deloitte study, 45% of shoppers are price-sensitive, 35% prioritise value, and 20% factor in sustainability.

While the country’s economy is on an upward trajectory, affordability remains a key concern. But here’s the twist—buying behaviour isn’t just about price tags anymore.

Younger consumers, armed with endless choices and information, are looking beyond brand familiarity. They’re weighing quality, ethics, and long-term benefits, proving that today’s purchase decisions are as much about smart spending as they are about savvy investing. And they are also very particular about the brand they invest in.

Now, the challenge in HRIPL’s portfolio is that both Vasmol and Streax target price-sensitive consumers, raising questions about potential overlap. Arora, however, is confident in their differentiation.

“Vasmol embodies ‘Bharat’—rooted in tradition, trust, and natural ingredients. It appeals to those who prioritise heritage and safety. Streax, on the other hand, represents ‘India’—fashion-forward, glamorous, and innovation-driven,” he claimed.

The almost seven-decade old company’s marketing playbook reflects this. Vasmol leans into heritage branding, vernacular marketing, and an older demographic. Streax, meanwhile, taps into influencer collaborations and digital-first campaigns designed to make hair colour aspirational for young urban consumers. Its ‘Portfolio Piano’ strategy—a spectrum of price points ranging from Rs 2 to Rs 22,000—has been ensures that both mass-market and premium buyers find a product suited to their budget.

Rural expansion: Small packs, big gains

Rural India accounts for nearly half of HRIPL’s consumer base, and its influence is growing. The company has expanded its direct distribution to over 2.5 million outlets, covering deep-tier markets.

“We’ve seen sustained double-digit growth in rural areas. Our approach has been simple: increase accessibility through smaller packs and drive engagement through hyper-local marketing,” Arora explains.

Trial packs, single-use sachets, and rural-specific offerings have been instrumental in driving adoption. “About 30-40% of our business comes from packs designed for value-conscious consumers. We have introduced sachets of Gel Hair Colour and trial packs for Crème Hair Colour and Serum. The idea is to make experimentation affordable,” Arora revealed.

The company is also deploying regional marketing strategies, including vernacular campaigns and tie-ups with local influencers. The goal? Build trust and familiarity while ensuring affordability.

Winning back the hair-colour skeptics

A major barrier to market expansion is the hesitation among consumers who fear hair colour will damage their scalp and hair health. HRIPL is addressing this through formulation upgrades.

“Super Vasmol 33 Kesh Kala now includes coconut oil, making it India’s first coconut oil-based safe hair colour. The tagline—‘Surakshit kale mere baal, Vasmol ne kiya kamaal’ (Safe and black hair, the magic of Vasmol)—reassures consumers of its safety,” says Arora.

Streax, meanwhile, is positioning its Gel Hair Colour as a shine-enhancing product with excellent grey coverage, while it premium Streax Professional Huemagic range takes things up a notch, featuring Vitamin Boost Technology and an ammonia-free formulation. “We’re not just selling colour; we’re selling colour with care,” Arora emphasises. Beyond colour, HRIPL is expanding its haircare portfolio to cater to the post-colouring needs of consumers and holistic hair nourishment.

The salon connection: Where trends are born

Salons remain a powerful touchpoint in shaping hair colour trends, and HRIPL’s Streax Professional is doubling down on this channel. “Since its inception in 2008, Streax Professional has worked closely with hairstylists. Our Technical Education team acts as the link between salons and R&D, ensuring our innovations align with market needs,” says Arora.

Salon professionals have played a direct role in shaping HRIPL’s product pipeline. The brand’s expansive palette of fashion shades and the launch of DIY fashion hair colours were direct responses to feedback from hairstylists. “One of our biggest successes—the Streax Professional Hair Serum—was originally created for salons before making its way to consumers,” Arora reveals.

Looking ahead, the company is focusing on heat protection and scalp-nourishing formulations, categories driven by hairstylist recommendations. “Salons are trend incubators. Our job is to take those trends and make them accessible to the everyday consumer,” says Arora.

As India’s hair colour market matures, HRIPL is preparing for a more personalised and digital-first future. “We are leveraging AI-driven recommendation engines to help consumers choose the right shade and formula based on their hair type and needs,” says Arora. The company is also integrating augmented reality (AR) tools that allow consumers to ‘try on’ hair colours virtually before making a purchase.

E-commerce is another growth pillar, with the company expanding its D2C footprint. “While retail remains strong, online sales are seeing rapid growth. Our partnerships with major e-commerce platforms and our own digital storefronts are key to the next phase of expansion,” he notes.

The hair colour category in India is at a tipping point. As fashion-driven consumption increases and rural penetration deepens, HRIPL is positioning itself as a formidable challenger to multinational giants. With a playbook that blends heritage with innovation, mass appeal with premiumisation, and tradition with trendiness, HRIPL is crafting a future where anytime can be hair colour time.